Pazzia….Oh Mama Mia!

San Francisco- Having traipsed around San Francisco for most of my life I’m quite competent in sleuthing out a new trattoria or two every few years or so. The best personal discoveries, of course, are from friends, strangers, and the occasional foodie blogger. The most recent occasion derived from a friend who had eaten at Pazzia (in SoMa on 3rd ST) TWO nights in a row.  Ever in search of good Italian food no matter where it is to be found my interest was, no doubt, piqued. So, having scored two rooms at a friend’s time-share on Saturday, August 23, my wife Merry, I, and friends Mike & Brenda  set out to see just what this “Pazzia for two nights in a row” was all about. After wine on the hotel terrace it was time to set out. The goal was to schlep on down to the SoMa via public transport. Having been denied access to the Powell St. Cable Car twice by both a crowd of foreign visitors and surly Brakemen we cabbed on down for a third of the cost.

Among  the many benefits of the wonderful renaissance in the South of Market neighborhood that occurred in the last twenty or so years, foremost of which is ATT Park, there has been an upwelling of small, but oh so fine eateries. Among these is Pazzia. Located at 337 Third St (415-512-1693). When we poured out of the cab at around 6PM we were immediately greeted by the charming and petite Giulia. Seated immediately, we were among 4-5 of the occupied tables. The trattoria is small and can seat perhaps 50-60 at capacity. The ambiance is open and airy. City traffic is noisy outside but lends to the lively involvement of the patrons and staff. One, from any view, has a direct look at all the staff as well as the cooking and prep area at the rear of the room. Intimate and engaging is the ambiance here. Yes, it’s noisy. Yes, it’s worth it.

On to the meal. This is obviously a working stiff’s kind of place. No frills. A one page menu with the regular offerings is presented along with a fresh copy of the piatti del giorno (that’s the Daily Specials for you folks in Rio Linda). Now, fresh is fresh and believe me, when you see a pile of thick- stalked broccoli and other vegetables in front of the cook you gotta believe me when I say FRESH. The bread was promptly proffered as well as water. Within minutes we were upon the menu and a double order of bruschetta and misto all’italiana was upon us. Was I glad to see that double order of bruschetta arrive! Did I say fresh? What could be worse than to have the bruschetta arrive with the oil and the tomato juices softening up the crustted pane bianco in a sorry mess? Not so here. The blend of obviously Farmer’s Market tomatoes, basil, olive oil, and seasoning was a perfect mixed blend of what real bruschetta should always be: a sublime yet light, flavorful topping upon a crisp slice of pane bianco that blends upon the pallette and makes your eyes roll back in their sockets! The misto was as sublime as it was varied: provolone, mozzarella d’ bufalo, prosciutto, fresh sprigs of arugula and pepperoncini sprinkled with oil. This antipasti led me to think the ingredient came from Peck in Milano!

As we finished the antipasti we were swept upon with the four different piatti del giorno. The four of us have dined well in Italy and expect a trattoria state-side to live up to the high standards we come to expect.  A taglierine of “home made” spinach pasta with salmon, panchetta, olives in a white sauce was brought to Brenda. She promptly became quiet in her zeal. It was pronounced quite good. Mike had the, again, “home made” Lasagne of besciamella in meat sauce. I observed the arrival of this dish and when I next looked up to Mike he was done. Again, speechless, a hearty nod indicated his approval. Merry was beset upon her Petto Pollo with great vigor as well. The chicken breast was stuffed to gushes of mozzarella and prosciutto, accompanied by that, oh so fresh, lightly grilled brocolli and patatas frits. Merry was enthralled and quiet as well. Since she’s a woman of few words and even less impressionable, I tasted her entre and can say it was most excellent. As a gatherer and lover of seafood as well as an accomplished cook of same I ordered the Spagetti alle Vongole. Having eaten this a few times in Italy on the Ligurian Coast I can say that those vatos en la cucina d’ Pazzia know what to do about this dish. The pasta was perfetto al dente and the clams were just the right seasoning and doneness. I added a little olive oil from the table and dug in for a true delight.

By now, 7PM, there was a waiting crowd of some dozen souls outside. The staff, led by the lovely Giulia, was promptly and politely greeting the newcomers to advise them of the wait. I looked around and the place was packed. As I scanned the room I saw the Honorable John Burton (D-SF, retired) in the corner nursing a rum and coke and reading a book. Good enough endorsement for me, I say. The empty main dishes were cleared and we verbally selected our dolci. Mike: the Tiramisu; Brenda & Merry the Lemon Cake; I, the Biscotieni with Grappa substituted for the Vin Santo. The tiramisu was light and not soggy (uggh, I can’t stand soggy tiramisu!); the Lemon Cake could have been made on Capri: Va bene! The grappa with soaked biscotti was smooth and surly as one would expect.

Now, the wine, you wonder. What of the wine? Well, Brenda had the wonderful foresight and we the selective luck to bring along an unbelievable A. Raffanelli 2000 Zinfandel. This small Dry Creek Valley vineyard produces what are quite possibly some of the best wines in California, if not the world. The $20 corkage was well worth this priceless pairing for all our dishes. Why didn’t we bring two?! I did not look at the wine list. And there are about a dozen pizza choices on the regular menu.

All prices are reasonable and fair. Service excellent, prompt, and friendly. The Italians do not hover like American waiters. I wish this country’s servers could learn some lessons on service from Europeans!

Go early, call ahead, or wait your turn. It’s worth it. Pazzia in SoMa is fantastico!

Antonio d’Gris